The history of Orient Watch Company dates back to 1901 when Shogoro Yoshida founded the "Yoshida Watch Shop" in Ueno, Taito, Tokyo, Japan. The shop originally specialized in selling imported pocketwatches and later expanded to produce gold wristwatch cases in 1912. In 1920, Toyo Tokei Manufacturing was established, focusing on crafting table clocks and gauges. It wasn't until 1934 that the company began manufacturing wristwatches. By 1936, the Hino factory was constructed in Hino, Tokyo, marking a period of prosperity for Toyo Tokei Manufacturing. Unfortunately, the company ceased operations in 1949 due to the economic hardships Japan faced post-World War II.
Orient's Hino Factory 1936
Following the closure of Toyo Tokei Manufacturing, Yoshida's venture into wristwatch production was resurrected in 1950 with the establishment of Tama Keiki Company. Operating out of the Hino factory, Tama Keiki Co. continued its tradition of crafting timepieces. A pivotal year came in 1951 when the company rebranded itself as Orient Watch Company, Limited (オリエント時計株式会社, Oriento Tokei Kabushikigaisha), coinciding with the launch of the inaugural Orient Star.
Demonstrating forward-thinking vision, Orient Watch Company sought expertise from Tamotsu Aoki, a distinguished figure in Japanese horology, to guide its aspirations. Aoki, a former Professor at the University of Tokyo and the founding chair of the Horological Institute of Japan, held ambitious plans to revitalize the Japanese watch industry and expand its global presence. The very name "Orient," derived from the Latin verb "oriri" meaning "to rise," epitomizes the brand's aspirations beyond Japan. Since its establishment, Orient has aimed to excel in the worldwide market by producing robust, accurate timepieces featuring premium in-house movements, all offered at competitive price points.
Orient Star 1951
Chronometer
Back in 1951, Orient rebranded, marking the debut of the first Orient Star – the pinnacle of Orient timepieces. The aim was to surpass all other mechanical watches across the universe. The timeless design remains unaltered to this day, exuding class and elegance with distinct features like asymmetrical second hand, blue hands, and the iconic Orient Star logo. In 1957, Orient introduced the Orient Star Dynamic model, featuring a central hand and Nivaflex spring, a tear-resistant material, showcasing the brand's commitment to innovation and quality.
Orient Star Dynamic
1957 Nivaflex
The Orient Star Dynamic watch, first introduced in 1957, featured the new and improved T-type center seconds movement known for its robustness, partly due to the Nivaflex spring technology.
Throughout 1957 and 1958, while the Dynamic line was active, numerous fresh and innovative designs were introduced.
Orient experimented with elaborate dial designs to create a more contemporary dress-watch style suitable for the late 1950s, in contrast to the Hinomatic's more traditional "early 50s" appearance. While these design differences may seem subtle to us today, they were likely well-received by consumers seeking a more up-to-date look.
Royal Orient
1959
Continuing on its upscale trajectory, Orient next launched the Royal Orient as part of its luxury line in 1958. As a nod to practicality, the Royal Orient was water resistant and featured the brand’s larger diameter and more stable 19-jewel N-type movement. The luxurious finishing and focus on movement engineering of the Royal Orient would later give rise to the Grand Prix and Fineness lines of the 1960s.
The Royal Orient Calendar: A Timeless Classic
Orient first introduced the Royal Orient watch series in 1958, and these exquisite timepieces have a timeless appeal that spans generations. In 1961, Orient unveiled the first models featuring a calendar complication, including the impressive Royal Orient Calendar.
Key Specifications:
- Case Diameter: Around 37mm
- Lug to Lug: Approximately 44mm
- Lug Width: 18mm
- Case Thickness: Sleek 9mm
- Caliber: Dependable N movement with 21 jewels
- Movement: Hand-wound mechanism
Design and Features:
The Royal Orient Calendar showcases a sophisticated design that blends elegance with simplicity. Its slim case creates a larger dial presence, giving the watch a more substantial look than its size suggests. The timepiece highlights a traditional hand-wound movement, underscoring the meticulous craftsmanship and attention to detail.
Showerproof and Timeless:
While not completely waterproof, the term "showerproof" signifies that the watch can endure water exposure, making it ideal for everyday use. It offers protection against accidental splashes and light rain.
Collectors' Delight:
Enthusiasts of vintage watches admire the Royal Orient Calendar for its refinement, dependability, and historical significance. The subtle elements like the date magnifier enhance its appeal. Whether you are a seasoned collector or new to the vintage watch realm, the Royal Orient Calendar is an essential addition to your collection.
Remember, these watches often appear larger due to their slim case design than their actual dimensions suggest. If you happen upon one, consider adding it to your collection—it is truly a treasure!
Royal Calendar Orient
Showerproof 23 jewels
Grand prix 100 jewels
1964
The introduction of the Grand Prix marked a pivotal moment in Orient's watchmaking journey, signifying their first steps into creating high-end timepieces. During the early 1960s, these watches featured top-of-the-line mechanical components available to Orient at that time, commanding a premium price point. Spanning from 1961 to 1963, Orient released several Grand Prix models showcasing exceptional quality movements compared to their other offerings. Subsequently, between 1963 and 1964, Orient took the Grand Prix collection to new heights by equipping its flagship models with exclusive, dedicated movements.
Orient Grand Prix 100:
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- Orient engaged in a “battle of the jewel count” during the early 1960s, resulting in the creation of the Grand Prix 100.
- The Grand Prix 100 stood out with an impressive 100 jewels, setting a new standard for the time.
- Noteworthy features included the IWC’s Pellaton Automatic winding device, a Triostat for precise adjustments (for chronometer-level accuracy), and an Incabloc for shock resistance.
- Case options ranged from 14k white gold-filled cases (not plated) with silver serving as the base metal.
- Other Orient Grand Prix Models:
- Orient introduced a range of Grand Prix models, each with its own distinct characteristics.
- The Orient Grand Prix Almighty 64 stands out as a rare JDM (Japanese Domestic Market) model from the 1960s, featuring 64 jewels and commemorating the 1964 Tokyo Olympics.Features include Triostat regulation, Incabloc shock absorption, and a Pellaton auto-wind mechanism2.
Grand Prix Almighty 64
Weekly Auto Orient
King Diver 1965
The Weekly Auto Orient King Diver is a fascinating timepiece that harks back to Japan’s dynamic '60s era. Let’s dive into its history and features:
Japan’s Golden Sixties. In the 1960s, Japan experienced explosive growth, leading to social and cultural changes. Amid this transformation, the Weekly Auto Orient King Diver emerged. While it boasted a modest 40m water resistance (which seems minimal today), it wasn’t designed for professional divers. Instead, it belonged to the category of “skin divers,” suitable for free diving and light recreational diving.
The Re-Edition Fast forward to today, and Orient has reissued this iconic watch as the Weekly Auto Orient King Diver 70th Anniversary. Staying true to the original design, this limited edition timepiece features a faithful dial design. However, notable changes include a larger case (43.8mm) and a more contemporary aesthetic. It’s the perfect combination of specs at an attractive price point, making it a versatile watch you can wear without worry.The bracelet, though incongruent in quality, complements the watch well.
Innovative Movement : The Weekly Auto Orient King Diver stands out with its relatively innovative movement (even if it was invented elsewhere).While it remains somewhat elusive outside Asia, its great looks and substantial size make it a compelling choice for vintage watch enthusiasts.
So, whether you’re a seasoned collector or a newcomer to vintage watches, the Weekly Auto Orient King Diver deserves a closer look. Its history, design, and affordability make it a standout piece in the world of horology.
Orient Fineness Ultramatic
1967 world's thinnest watch
During the mid-1960s, Japanese watchmakers acknowledged Orient's victory in the jewel-count competition with its Grand Prix 100, leading to a shift in focus towards developing the thinnest watch movement. Citizen initially held the record for the world's thinnest mechanical three-hand movement with the hand-wound cal. 0700. However, the preference for automatic winding mechanisms among buyers prompted a race to create the slimmest self-winding movement. Orient rose to the challenge.
In 1967, Orient introduced caliber 3900, named for its remarkable thinness at a mere 3.9mm, surpassing Citizen's 3.98mm caliber 54. While a slight margin, it took Citizen five years to reclaim the title for the world's thinnest automatic day-date movement.
Caliber 3900 boasted 35 jewels and featured cutting-edge innovations like a bi-directional winding mechanism and incabloc shock absorption technology, showcasing Orient's commitment to advancement.
The new movement found its home in a distinctive model known as the Fineness Ultramatic. Encased in a uniquely shaped cushion case with sharp edges accentuating its slim profile, the watch stood out in terms of design. The case measured 33mm in width, with an overall height of about 8.5mm, including the domed crystal.
Following the release of the early silver-dialed model, several variants of the Fineness were introduced, including models with dark dials and gold-plated finishes, appealing to a wide range of tastes.
Competitively priced, the basic models of the Fineness retailed for just below 20,000 JPY, while the gold-plated version was priced around 22,000 JPY. In comparison, equivalent models from Citizen, like the Super Crystal Date and Chronomaster, commanded a higher price point, positioning the Fineness as a high-end timepiece at the time.
A later iteration of the Fineness emerged in a larger, slightly elongated cushion form factor, measuring 36mm across. Equipped with the updated caliber 3991 movement and a convenient push-button at 2 o'clock for quick date setting, this version offered enhanced functionality.
As the decade drew to a close, Orient shifted its focus towards developing faster movements, marking a significant shift from the pursuit of ultra-thin designs. In 1974, Citizen reclaimed the spotlight with the introduction of the 3.73mm cal. 8001A, reaffirming its position at the forefront of thin day-date self-winding movements.
As the quest for thinner movements evolved, it eventually transitioned to become dominated by leading Swiss brands, signaling a new era in watchmaking innovation and competition.
